martes, 1 de abril de 2008

cavall bernat en solitari

Com que aquest finde no he pogut escalar,us penjo el relat d'una de les meves primeres escalades sol.Alguns ja l'haureu llegit abans,donç ho vaig editar en un enllaç paralel al meu blog.

El dia 24 de setembre del 2005 em vaig llevar amb ganes de fer una escalada diferent del que havia escalat fins a les hores.Volia escalar una via en solitari que tinguès una longitud important i m’assegures experiències emocionants.

En realitat no feia gaire que escalava sol,només uns mesos,pero la necesitat d’enfilar-me alt guanyava al caràcter inexpert que asol·lia.

Com que no domino el tema d’autoassegurarme havia d’escollir una via mínimament equipada pero que no perdés les característiques descrites anteriorment.La candidata ideal va ser la Punsola Reniu del Cavall Bernat V+/Ae 220mtrs.Dit i fet,em poso de camí a Montserrat amb tot l’equip necesari per afrontar un dia d’escalada en solitari,almenys això pensava.

Arribo al pàrking de Santa Cecilia on ja es respira ambient d’escalada .Esmorzo una mica i em poso a repassar el material,(indispensable operaciò avans d'empendre la marxa).Corda,casc,arnes,gats,soloist,25 cintes expres,estreps,vuit,shunt,shunt…..shunt?? "m’he oblidat el shunt a casa!" Per a mi el shunt era un aparell imprescindible,ja que l’utilitzaba per remontar els llargs amb la corda pasada,ja que encara no disposava d'un jumar o el crol que ara tinc i que son mil vegades mes fiables que el shunt.De fet ni tansols es un aparell dissenyat per aquesta finalitat,pero com he dit abans la inexperiencia….

Agafo el cotxe cami de casa tot pensant quina via de Sant Llorenç faria,ja que el meu descuit m’havia fet perdre molt temps per tornar.Tot i així una vegada amb el shunt a la mà decideixo enfilar la carretera de Manresa dirrecció Montserrat altra vegada.Son les onze del matí i començo a pujar la carretera cap al monestir,pero quan em falten dos o tres quilometres em trobo amb la caravana de domingueros que volen entrar al pàrking,que per variar esta a tope.

Després d'una hora sencera a pas d'autentica tortuga arribo a la croïlla que em porta al refugi,però decideixo que farè l’aproximació al Cavall per una canal que he vist només passar la croïlla,amb l’esperança de pujar més ràpid,després vaig descobrir que de vegades el camí recte no és el més eficaç.

Deixo el cotxe sobre les dotze i mitga a la carretera i començo la canal anomenada canal de la font del gat.Després de desorientar-me varies vegades trobo el cami correcte.La canal està equipada amb trams de corda fixa,tot i així s'em fa durísima,deu ser pels 20 kilos de motxilla que porto.Cada vegada la canal es fà mes intractable i acabo per fer l’ultim tram utilitzant la orientació propia (camp a través).

Per fí i després d'una llarga hora de suar arribo al cami GR que em durà fins a la canal del Cavall.Hem sorprenc de lo lluny que estic encara,desde Santa Cecilia son només 50 minuts fins a peu de via.Però no hem desanimo i prenc la determinació de que com a molt tard tinc que començar l'escalada a les dues del migdia,sino no tindré possibilitats d’acabar amb llum de dia (es fa de nit a les 8).

Arribo a peu del Cavall Bernat a les dues menys deu.”buff! estic empapat de suor,aquesta canal...crec que no la fare mai més".(la inexperiencia s’estava cebant amb mi avui).

Em preparo tots els bàrtols,amago la motxilla en uns arbustos i començo a trepar."Ara son les dues en punt,tinc sis hores per arribar al cotxe,no ens podem permetre herrades".Davant meu tinc una cordada,"estan en el tercer llarg,espero que no hem dongin problemes".


Els dos primers llargs els faig sense perdre ni un segon,amarro corda,pujo amb el soloist,lligo la corda a la “R”,rapelo fins la reunió anterior i utilitzo el shunt per tornar a remontar el llarg i recuperar tot el material,els primers metres son senzills i tot va de maravella.



Després de remontar el tercer llarg ja tinc la cordada que em precedeix a pocs metres,crec que son guiris i estan flipant amb mi,el que assegura està mes rato pendent de mi que del seu company.Decideixo jalar algo i fer una pausa per donar una mica de quartell als braços,a partir d’aquí gairebè tot en artificial.



De tant en tant pasa algun núbol amb mala pinta,no vull pensar com seria aguantar un xàfec a la paret,ademés vaig amb corda simple que no hem permet rapelar els llargs de forma segura.El millor serà no pensar i concentrar-me amb la feina.

Començo els trams d’artificial,de moment no utilitzo l'estreb,ja que les assegurances permeten anar tibant d’A0.Arribant ja a la fí del segòn tram d’Ae començo a notar unes rampes als braços que amargen una mica el bon sabor que deixa l’espectacular i vertical tram(per mí el mès bonic)que estic finalitzant.

Monto reunió i respiro profundament per concienciar-me de que no pasarà rés i acabarem sencers,tot i que els núbols amenassin de que no serà així.La cordada del davant ja nomès li queda l’ultim llarg,el que comença amb una petita travessa a la dreta.Per les seves expresions crec que no s’expliquen com un escalador sol pot anar al seu ritme.Espero trobar-me amb ells al cim i així poder xerrar i fer algunes fotos.


Començo a rapelar fins arribar a la reunió de sota,m’asseguro,desmonto el vuit i preparo el shunt per tornar a pujar,"merda! no pot ser! He deixat el shunt lligat amb demès trastos a la reunio de dalt,i tot per estalviarme uns grams de pès,que burru!"En primer moment em venen ganes de cridar als guiris i demanar ajuda,pero... "no pot sèr! ja no els tinc a la vista,deuen estar arribant a dalt,cullons! Ara que faig?"


Hem va costar serenar-me i pensar algo coherent,però només pensava en els mal·leits núbols negres i amb el mal que hem feien les mans i els braços,i pensava en que perquè m’havia passat aixó precisament en un dels llargs mès durs per la verticalitat i la longitud de tota la via.


En primer moment vaig tornar a montar el vuit i vaig intentar tirar amunt,"pero què estas fent?"hem vaig dir..."no se t'acut rés millor?pensa una mica òstia,que et jugues el coll!"


La meva autocrítica va donar resultats al moment.Em faig un nus de gaza i em lligo a la corda amb un mosquetó de rosca.Començo a pujar,sempre amb el mateix ritme,pujo dues xapes i m’asseguro amb una cinta,deslligo el nús i en faig un altre més amunt,a la meva alçada,d’aquesta manera la caiguda com a molt seria de trés metres.


Amb els braços i el cos ja bastant cansat,consegueixo arribar a la reunió,ara ja sí que estic envoltat d'una boira que no em deixa veure el final.Només em queden dos llargs,pero l’últim no em preocupa,tóta l’atenció el dedico al llarg que hem precedeix,recordo que hi ha uns pasets finets que em tenen una mica engoixat.


Li foto canya per no perdre el temps,avanço bastant dinàmic sense els estrebs,pero vaig fent paradetes per recuperar energia.


Estic davant dels passos durs que tant rato porto imaginant,li faig una ullada al soloist per concienciar-me de que és un aparell capaç d'afrontar i parar una caiguda"i aixó penses ara? Cuan ja estàs a 180 metres del terra? Concentret!" no hem paro de repetir.


Estic apunt d’arribar a la xapa que farà que part del meu calvari acabi,col·loco bé els peus,estiro el braç i m’agafo d'una merdeta de regleta,ja sol queda una tibadeta i xapar,pero"fua!! ara no!!quin mal!" una rampa s’apodera de la meva fita quasi aconseguida,el dolor em fa recular fins a terreny segur,llenço uns quants insults a l’aire,recupero l’alé i trec el meu estrep fabricat per mí.Sol·luciono el pas com puc i deseguida arribo a l'ultima reunió "la ultima!".Pero abans he de rapel·lar i recuperar"Que vè que m’aniria un company ara".


Quan definitivament ja sol hem queda afrontar l’ultim llarg hem miro les mans bastant malmesses,unes butllofes estant fastidiant,pero el pitjor és el vent que s’ha sumat a la festa amb la boira.No veig més enllà de deu metres.P'el cap s’em passen moltes coses,la primera per suposat és què diables faig aquí,si arribare a dalt i si hem donarà temps a baixar fins el cotxe,ja que es fà de nit i no duc frontal.


Abans de començar el llarg tinc la brillant idea de fer un nus sobre la meitat de la corda i amarrarla a la reunió,de manera que a l'hora de pujar nomès hagi d'arrastrar la meitat del pés de la corda.


Convençut de que ja no hi haurien més problemes començo la petita travessa a la dreta fins arribar a l’esperó on jà només quedaran uns pocs metres per acabar.Just encarar aquest tram noto com em golpeja un fortíssim vent i com passen els nuvols al meu voltant.La sensació de fret augmenta,les cames tremolen,una mica per la temperatura i una mica per la por.Fins ara el Cavall em resguardava d’aquest atac de la natura."amunt!,amunt!".


Ja veig l 'última reunió,la tinc a poca distancia,la roca per fí es tomba una mica aliviant la sensació de tremolor de les cames,"nomes trés metres i arribo,ja quasi estic,pero... què pasa?ara s’hem enganxa la corda?" No puc seguir pujant,la corda no dona més"Ostia puta!no m’ho puc creure!sembla que algú estigui jugant amb mi!".El nús que habia fet a mitja corda habia creat un bucle fins al la punta que tambe tenia lligada a la reunió i no hem deixava pujar."Montarè una reunió a l'ultima assegurança i baixarè a desfer-ho tot" Pero apart del perill que comportava aixó ja habia deixat massa enrera la ultima xapa.


Tenia que seguir fins a la fi...com?donç deslligantme de la corda"Menys mal que no estic gaire vertical" Ajuntant totes les bagues i cintes que tenia fins a conectar la corda d’escalar amb les xapes de la “R”.Crec que només van sobrar dos o tres"Buff!tot aixó sembla una proba de supervivència,ja només queda recuperar aquest llarg i baixar"Ara ja m’era igual que plogués o que fés vent,estava apunt de fer el cim!

Son les sis i mitja,porto cuatre hores i mitja trepant,"No esta tant malament".Amb bastanta gana i els braços matxacats hem poso a recollir el material i hem faig la autofoto de rigor amb el mobil i amb la moreneta darrere meu.Es l'únic que es veu,perquè la boira….


Sort que se per on es fan els ràpels,no vull ni pensar què seria quedar-te penjat al final de la corda amb doscents metres de caiguda sota teu.Arribo a l’arbret característic de darrera del Cavall,"Ja nomes queda desgrimpar una mica i podrè plegar la corda".


Ara son les set,"Tinc una puta hora per arribar a la carretera i encara estic aquí dalt!"Hem lligo la corda a l’esquena i començo a tirar canal cap a baix en busca de la motxilla amagada on hi tenía mig entrepà que es va devorar en très mossegades.



La llei de Murphy va fer acte de presència i els núbols es van retirar deixant pas a la fantàstica panoràmica del cim que no vaig poder disfrutar.


L'engoixa no hem marxava del cos,el temps s’em fotia a sobre.Una vegada en el GR començo a correr en busca de la canal,l'enfilo cap a baix,estic suant de nou una barbaritat,cada vegada hi ha menys llum,pero el soroll dels cotxes pasant per la carretera em dona una mica d’alè.


Per fí estic apunt d’arribar!!"Si senyor!toma!toma!toma!" crido com un possés,ja estic a la carretera.Pràcticament de nit arribo al cotxe,son les vuit.Ara només queda avisar a casa que estic bé,menjar unes ametlles i fruita,i ja a les fosques agafar el carro per tornar a casa a descansar,si,a descansar!!


Aquesta ha sigut una de les probes físiques més dures que he pasat mai,pero tambè tinc els millors records d’una escalada compromesa,emocionant e instructiva que m’ha ajudat a compendre una mica més la muntanya.

72 comentarios:

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Este comentario ha sido eliminado por un administrador del blog.
Mingo dijo...

Molt bé Quimi, enhorabona.
Lo de deixar-se alguna cosa a la reunió i la puta corda que no corre, acostuma a pasar, els pensaments que et venen al cap són els que descrius, LA PUTA CORDA.
Felicitats, de nou.

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Quim!!!com m'has fet patir llegin-t'he...mira que vas arribar a jugarte-la en aquella ascensió, sort que, tot i el que tu pensaves, no escalaves sol, aquell "àngel" que protegeix els escaladors era al teu costat!
Salut i grimpades!

Anónimo dijo...
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Anónimo dijo...

Molt Bé!! Quins collons la Punsola Reniu en solitari! Jo la vaig fer amb un company de cordad i ja ho vaig passar prou malament, ens perseguia el temps com a tu, però vam arribar al cotxe passades les 12 i varem fer el ràpel de nit i sense frontal...Quin dia!
Escolta una solució que suposos que a hores d'ara ja deus conèixer sino tens el shunt es fer un o dos nusos prusik amb un/s cordino/s lligats del teu arnés a la corda, et permeten remuntar i s'autobloquejen i també t'asseguren un ràpel!
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